6/12/11
At the Nairobi International Airport now. I got here about 4 hours early. I do have an explanation.
On the 9th, the day were to fly to Malindi on the coast, we were busy packing and cramming in as much sightseeing as we could. Katie, as usual, is in a panic about time. We were taking too long getting on the second bus downtown. The plane tickets were taking too long and they were super sketchy because they were printed by a dot matrix printer from the 60s. They essentially said, "This is your ticket to Malindi"and have a bunch of coded letters and numbers we prayed meant aerial transport to silver beaches. The travel agency traded hotels on us last minute and that was taking forever to rebook. We finally got out of there and barely had *gasp* around 9 hours to kill.
We checked out the nice mall they have and finally found where Kenya hides all the white people. Just pump A/C into a well painted building, charge the equivalent of $100 for a bit of fabric labelled "bathing suit", and the crackers come a running.
There are many funny things about this place. Not least of which is the frequency of attempts I see to take advantage of whitish foreigners, their abundance of money and their lack of patience for haggling. Water is 3 times the regular cost in the American style "fast food" place. Crappy hand made duplicates are 8 times what they're willing to let them go for. Two stores in the same mall have near identical bathing suits for a modest price difference of $95. This is the same place where street vendors(if you can find them) are selling luxury foods like 4 delicious tomatoes for $0.10, onions for the same, fresh cilantro bundles for $0.20 and giant hunks of the sweetest pineapple I've ever had, including Hawaii, for less than that.
We got a few things for Malindi at this mall. Luckily we found the discounted prices. We walked outside because Katie had seen some masks she was interested in on the taxi drive there. The first shop we went to immediately bombarded us. "Come inside! Looking is free!" If we showed the smallest modicum of interest in anything not there they sent a runner to get it from some other store. We had to say "no" to literally everything they had in the store before they'd get out of the way. I wanted to buy nothing just to teach them about the power of the soft sell. This wasn't hard selling. It was more like border-line rape-selling.
I wanted a pipe, and Katie wanted some paintings. They were incredibly generic formula paintings but Katie liked them so we got them. They quoted the price of the "Ebony" pipe at 8000/= or $96. Apparently this kind of retardation has worked before on some rich guy's dumb wife or someone who literally burns money for fun. After trying to pull Katie out of there grumbling about not being taken seriously, blah blah blah, I got the pipe for 1500/=(about $18) and she got three $12 paintings. I justified it because I can be the douche that smokes a pipe and tells people "I bought this pipe on one of my travels in Kenya" and I do seriously want to support commerce in Kenya. I hear hopes for the new constitution being implemented there next August, but the corruption in government certainly doesn't seem to be changing quickly enough. More on that later.
(Back to NBO Nairobi International Airport)
Nothing on this trip has been simple or straight forward. I'm currently waiting for my gate # to be posted on the board. It's 15 minutes before my plane is supposed to start boarding and check in is supposed to already be locked. This will only be an easier departure than our Malindi trip if the plane actually leaves to Brussels with me on it. I still can't find a Brussels representative, and everyone else assures me that a gate number will be posted.
Before heading to Malindi, we calculated plenty of time to see the museum and snake park. The sign said a super cheap 100-200/= depending on how much you wanted to see of the exhibits. Oh wait, for non-residents it's 1200/= per person. $15, ok, whatever, it was cool. Really cool art gallery. We probably would have bought one of the paintings if we weren't worried about the delivery. The stuffed birds were creepy, but really interesting to see just how big they are up close. The Kenyan history was interesting as was the snake park. I shot a few videos.
Afterward we jumped a cab back to downtown (they just called it 'town') and grabbed a bus back to our place to get our luggage for Malindi. All according to plan. We had ages of time left. After about 30 minutes of watching bus after full bus pass our stop on the way to the airport and the closest cab we could phone was a 30 minute traffic jam away we started hitting Katie's delicate panic button.
I asked a minibus (14 or so person Nissan barely larger than a minivan they call 'Nee-san') if he could take us to the airport. He said they're not allowed at the airport, only cabs and full buses could go per the local laws. I asked him how close he could get us and for how much. He said 50/= to the roundabout near the airport, then we could jump a 20/= bus the rest of the way. The big question was if we'd have better luck getting a bus at the roundabout than here. This fine, upstanding, stained-toothed man in a dirt-painted nissan seemed to think it would be fine. No problem. Adventure time!
We jumped in and waited there for the nissan to fill up with other sweaty people going the same way. Only a few minutes in and we hit a dead stop; a 40 minute dead stop.
Katie starts whispering 'Ye su neguju, Yesu neguju'. It's a Korean chant they taught at REM meaning, "Jesus is my savior." They taught it as a statement of power and faith, and as a simple prayer in times of trouble. When they chanted this in REM, the Korean women usually started rocking back and forth and screamed this phrase over and over. When we returned to Nairobi we'd hear it for about an hour straight at a time echoing from the small chapel near our flat. When I first experienced this chanting, it immediately made me think of what Jesus said in Matthew 6:7,
"
And when you pray, do not keep on babbling like pagans, for they think they will be heard because of their many words. 8Do not be like them, for your Father knows what you need before you ask him."
It was strange and rubbed me the wrong way, but I had to admit that it really worked for getting the blood going and giving you the chills of a cathartic, then euphoric religious experience. I theorize this and emotional comfort, combined with the 'holy status' was the big draw for some.
People on motorbikes and on foot were passing us in the dirt side of the road. Sitting on the front seat over the hot transmission and under my luggage wasn't helping my anxious stink. The driver noticed my impatience and asked if I was in a hurry. "Little bit", I was thinking of walking. He pointed out the departing airplanes climbing into the sky still several slow kilometers away. Walking was out.
He suggested I hire him personally and then he could take us to the airport. I asked him how much and he quoted me 1500/=. The same price the travel agency said was the legal maximum taxis could charge. We still had a little time left, and my Korean side for some reason must haggle. I mumbled it was too much and mentioned 1000/=. He dropped to 1300/= after mentioning having to pay to get in and out of the airport didn't phase me. I continued to stall as we neared the last round about.
Traffic was still crawling desperately slow. The choice was search for, hope for, pray for a bus/taxi to take us the rest of the way or pay this guy and guarantee our trip to the airport. "Ok, deal." Commitment is usually when the real fun starts.
By this time there were only a couple of others left in the minibus. They both seemed to be working with the driver. One was definitely the conductor all the 'Nissans' have. They hang out the side, shouting where they're going, how much they cost, and bang on the side of the minibus to signal the driver to stop or go.
Around this time the driver starts his bit about how corrupt the cops are and how they pick on the Nissans. From what I gathered from the pieces of word fragments I could understand, Nissans have strict local laws they have to follow. They have certain numbers they display when they are performing a public transportation role, and they have to flip that number around to display 'private' if they are acting in a taxi's role. If the cops catch them breaking any rules they extort money out of them.
As if on cue, up ahead in the sluggish traffic was a cop shouting and gesticulating at various cars. I thought he was a traffic cop, but when we finally got to him he looked pissed and obviously recognized the conductor. There was a few seconds that felt like minutes where they jabbered in what sounded like Swahili. I just stared at the floor. I wanted nothing to do with the inside of a Kenyan prison because I didn't have enough bribe money. Don't make eye contact. The cop then started screaming and banging on the door of the bus. I quietly started rocking and whispering "Jesu Neguju" in my head.
The door slid open and he yanked the conductor out of the minibus by his collar and pulled him across the road somewhere. The other guy got out as well I believe. The driver discreetly flipped the number card hanging from the windshield from 33 to "Private". I never did get clear on whether doing that earlier would have saved the conductor. The driver said the cop wanted 1000/= ($12) and the conductor didn't have it so he was going away for 6 months. He also mentioned that the cops knew them all and constantly ate into their income.
As we crawled around the roundabout the minibus' gas light went on. The driver asks me if I'm ok to get gas. I'm looking at the gridlock and wondering what choice I have when he starts going around again and proves just how very little. He continues to rail against the corruption and the heavy hand of the law as he almost hits a traffic cop trying to deal with this madness. Then he proceeds to go off-roading on the side of the street to speed past the traffic, then swerves a 90 degree turn back onto the car packed road, cutting across 3 lanes of multidirectional traffic. All this was well within viewable distance of the several traffic cops around, not to mention Death's hungry gaze, but the speed, air, and freedom were actually rather fun.
A couple of litres dropped in the tank by a station attendant and that was the fastest part of the trip.
A quick word about driving in Kenya. These guys are crazy. Even though there may be 80% of San Diego taxi drivers from this part of the world, the ones back home are driving Miss Daisy by comparison. They drive so unbelievably close to each other on roads with no dividing lines. This includes when they pass each other when most roads can only physically fit 3 car widths with inches of space in between. Maybe I should say centimeters, but they cut each other off and even play chicken with the smallest of spaces.
Horn honking is the more polite communication choice for warnings of impending passing, a friendly hello, or signalling a general disapproval. The stronger reprimand is a reach out the window and physically beat the other car with their hand while yelling something a shaman might scream while slaughtering a goat and cursing someone's children's children. The most polite one I could understand was a long hand held out in the international sign for 'halt' and with a James Earl Jones-like booming voice shouted, "You are SO WRONG!" then a 5 minute tirade about crazy drivers in Kenya.
Although I've never seen so many 18 wheelers flipped on the side of the road in the combined total of all my years of life, I was very surprised there weren't more accidents.
We finally reached the airport and as usual I was wrong to hope for fewer problems. So we pull up to the security gate into the airport and another cop with the familiar yellow jacket and a giant AK-47 style rifle steps in front of the vehicle. The driver looks visibly concerned. The cop circles the vehicle and is obviously looking for an excuse. I doubt he even finds anything. I doubt it matters.
A quick word on corruption. Crooked cops should be shot. I'm not being facetious. That's not hyperbole. They should be publicly stripped of their badge and gun, have all their tyrannical crimes against the people as well as their crimes against a sacred position of trust and power over the common man read aloud. Then they should be shot knowing their family name will be shamed and their children shunned.
Every time a politician, cop, or anyone in a governmentally backed position of power considers a bribe, or abuse of their power, they should think about getting shot and their family stripped of all their wealth.
Police extortion and government corruption is like a child getting raped by a parent. You're getting fucked by those who are supposed to protect you and there's no one else to turn to.
The driver made mention that due to population increase and government funds they were having trouble staffing enough police and were hiring people that couldn't even read or write. He then continued to bitch about how when he left the airport that second cop was going to want a cut and asked if I could just give him the 1500/=.
Whether he was telling the truth or the entire thing was an elaborate ploy they play on foreigners to get a couple more dollars out of an hour and 40 minute trip, the evidence all pointed inarguably to one conclusion.
This place is a shithole.
If the cops are crooked? Shithole.
If they think a 5 man team and an elaborate trick to get $2 more out of me is a good deal for them? Shithole.
I happily exited the death trap and gave him the $18. He was super stoked and offered to drive us when we got back.
Now that I'm finally on the plane to Brussels, this time was a dream in comparison. The fact that they never put up a gate number for my flight, the fact that it was 30 minutes late, and the fact that had I not by chance heard word of mouth where my plane was I would have missed the flight all added up to wishing I drank more than two beers. I rather enjoy the Tusker Malt served ubiquitously in Kenya, but they were not nearly enough inebriation to relax me into enjoying the 6 lines I had to wait in. There was a line just to get into the airport, get through security before check in, get checked in, get through immigration, get to pre-boarding, get through Brussel's own security, wait in a waiting room because there was a line of planes for the limited gates, then finally the wait to get on the plane and sit.
I must say I'm really impressed with how much of a better airline Brussels Airlines is to American ones. Seriously. Headphones? Included. Meals? Included. Luggage? Included. Free Beer? Included. This was the same with Kenyan Air.
Malindi was pretty close to a dream. Minus the mosquitoes and the human blood suckers, I wish we were still there. From the extremely numerous Italian villas there, many mafia crime lords feel the same way. There were some of the largest, white pillared mansions I've seen right on the beach. Locals always said they were Italians looking to hide their money.
We went during down season so we pretty much had the hotel Eden Roc to ourselves. Top notch hospitality, cheap drinks, giant pool, beach access, and it was walking distance to our favorite ice cream shop. It was like renting a mansion on the beach with a bunch of super friendly servants for $66/night.
We walked around the little town with the plan to see the Marine Park. Somehow when we were looking for an ATM, this guy, Omar, smelled fresh blood and took it upon himself to be our tour guide/snorkel supplier/best friend. He followed us around like a creepy homeless dude, and didn't really look much different. He quoted us ridiculous prices for "Tuktuks", the three wheeled taxi cars they have here and claimed he couldn't quote snorkels prices until we got to the park.
I was about to tell him to get lost after going to the ATM, but he got us a "Tuktuk" for 150/= to the Marine Park. I didn't realize this meant he and his college were going to tag along. Katie is of course telling me how she's scared in Korean. Neither of them are paying for the tuktuk ride. I hate these people right now.
Apparently it's against local law to have more than 3 passengers in these tiny motorbike-jeep hybrids and the college jumps off before a check point. We pass the check point then the driver pulls to the side of the road to wait for the guy to cross on foot. Annoyed, I asked what we were waiting for. Like I'm retarded, they explain again about the local law and how they're waiting for the asshat to catch up on foot. Like they're retarded, I ask the driver if he was paying to tag along. The driver says 'no', and gets the hint. We bail.
When we get to the park, there's a big fight about price and Katie and I nearly left. There happened to be some other tourists there who said it was well worth it so I relented when they finally agreed to my price. Haggling is annoying. I swear I could run that town with a no fuss, reasonably priced all inclusive package for tourists that don't want their relaxing vacations ruined by creepy, toothless guys trying to break their wallets. See all the sites, don't get hassled by swindlers, don't have a romantic time ruined by jerks who can't take a hint. I made sure to tip generously every soft sell guy I met. Hard sellers always get zero tip.
As it turns out the park was quite over priced, including the foreigner mark up, but I'm still glad we did it. It was a lot of fun. It was essentially just a nice beach with a bunch of barely floating boats. We hopped into one and road out with another couple from Nairobi and two crew men.
The boat had one of the glass bottoms but there wasn't much visible there. The real attraction was feeding the swarms of fish. There were tons of them. They went crazy for bread. It was a pretty strange feeling being surrounded by so many swarming fish but they were friendly enough. I only got bit once, but was an accident the way I was pinching the bread. It didn't hurt at all and he apologized profusely. So we're cool.
Snorkeling was alright. I mildly wish I brought my own gear, but it was functional enough to see a giant octopus wrapped around a rock. It had suckers the size of 50 cent pieces. I have a healthy caution around animals I've seen attack and eat sharks so I kept my distance.
Katie started getting seasick. I tried distracting her by jumping off the roof of the boat together and back-flipping into the water. She said it helped a little but ended up with her eyes glued to the horizon all the way back to shore. I could barely get her to look at land when it was time to get off the boat.
There was a kite surfing guy there too who gave us a little demo on how to run into boats. I probably would have paid to try it but he said the wind was pretty weak. Apparently Europeans will pay 350euros for lessons.
We went to the ice cream place afterwards. It was hot and we had been walking so this was especially amazing. The rest of the day was drinks by the pool over looking the ocean. The weather was warm, the breeze cool, and somehow the epecially large puffy clouds rolling by were so much bigger and clearer in this unpolluted land. We took in a nice shrimp and steak meal for dinner and decided to watch the sunrise over the ocean the next morning.
This was when I was planning to propose so I of course woke up around 4am wide awake and a bit nervous. I prayed for an obvious sign if I was making a big mistake, and then for some reason felt compelled to formulate easy shortcuts for multiplying 2 digit numbers together for an hour and a half.
I discovered that if the first digits are the same and the second digits add up to 10, there's a really easy way to multiply them. For example, 83 x 87 = 7221. Just multiply the first number(8) by one number higher (9) for the first digits (72), then multiply the second digits(3x7) for the last (21). 25x25 = 625, 51x59 = 3009, so on and so forth. If you're a giant nerd like me and care why that works, ask me and I'll explain it. I started some slightly more complicated 3 digit stuff too, but I'll not bore you any longer with that.
So we bundled up, sprayed on repellent and smeared on sunscreen. We opened the door to pouring rain.
Oh my God. Really?
We still had some time before sunrise, so we decided to go down and see what we could see. Miracles. The clouds parted by the time we walked a flight of steps and 100 meters through the hotel to the ocean side. Not a drop of rain hit us. We walked the palm tree girded path to the beach drinking in the stillness of everything at that hour. Even the night guard, noiseless came forth from the shadows like a ninja to let us know he was there with a nod. The need for the guard still baffles me. They almost crapped their pants the other night when I suggested a night walk on the beach to Katie. They were super scared of murder/rape or something. They would never admit there was any danger, but they didn't act like it. They almost fell over themselves to get another guard that could accompany us.
We found a nice hill and huddled together and watched the titanic floating mountains grow brighter and brighter halos. It was gorgeous, but it looked like the horizon was too clouded to see the sun. The receptionist earlier had mentioned that clouds often obscured the sunrise when we asked what time it would be.
Come on...clouds and rain? Really? I wanted everything to be perfect, but it didn't look like we were going to get a sunrise. At the time I thought, screw superstitious weather and I just went ahead and proposed. She's the one I want to be with rain or shine and I wasn't going to back out now.
Almost immediately after I asked her to marry me and I put the perfect fitting, diamond ring on her finger, the sun exploded over the horizon. We hadn't missed it. It was merely waiting for us.
She didn't seem all that surprised by the proposal. I know she's been waiting for that for a long time and it certainly means the world to me that she's been so patient with me.
For the rest of the day we were super lazy and it was bliss. It was a wonderful ending to an otherwise dreadful trip and I wish I didn't have to leave Kenya without her.
Epilogue:
On the way back home, I started to get severe stomach pains, nausea and couldn't stop evacuating my bowels as sizable liquid deposits. I had around 30-40 mosquito bites, many of which were from the higher malaria risk area of Malindi, so I figure it may be due to that. I ended up not eating for about 3 days, but some how had enough in me to choke the toilet 20 or so times a day. The last few times as my stomach started feeling better was pretty much just peeing from my butt. Africa had one last gift to leave me with and showed me there was literally nothing in that country that didn't come with a significant price.
I've been sleeping a couple hours a day, then staying up all night trying to sleep some more since I got back. I finally found that melatonin and wine work rather nicely. I got a solid 4 hours last night.
There's still plenty to do. Katie is working with some of the friends we made in Africa to organize chair, possibly desks, books, and more food for the children of Lordwar, Lokichar, as well as many of the orphaned kids in the Nairobi slums. We talk every day on google voice for $.24/min, because screw At&t, that's why. No. I miss her dearly and even after all the trouble, frustration, lies, and problems, I still wish I was back there with her. I still wish I can one day go back to Turkana and do something lasting for those wonderful people.